Prague is a city of stunning physical beauty. While the capitals of other Eastern European nations were flattened or heavily damaged during World War II, Prague survived intact. Gothic and baroque spires, art-nouveau facades and even cubist structures combine in a pattern that is distinctly Czech, despite long periods of domination by Saxons, Swedes, Germans and Russians. At one time the seat of the Holy Roman Empire and at another the citadel of the Hapsburgs, Prague sustains a reputation as a vital, political, cultural and economic center. Prague's rich cultural tradition is acknowledged by the European Union in naming it, along with eight other European cities, a City of Culture for 2000.
Oli and I visited this great, amazing city over a sunny weekend in September. We traveled by train (just a 5-hour ride from Vienna) and stayed 3 days at a cheap hostel ("Kolej Jednota") near Wenceslas Square.
The center of Prague is basically one big landmark, monument, and historic site, spread across the oldest part of the city, which is divided into four quarters:
- The Old Town (Staré Mesto)
- The Lesser Town (Malá Strana)
- The Castle District (Hradcany)
- The New Town (Nove Mesto)
Although public transportation (especially underground and tram) in Prague is cheap and reliable, I suggest discovering Prague by foot.
What to see?
Before going exploring, slip a city map into your pocket - it will certainly be useful.
- The Old Town (Staré Mesto): The heart of Prague is Old Town Square (Staromestská), where you will find the Church of St. Nicholas and the Church of our Lady Týn. In the middle of the square a memorial to Jan Hus is erected. A third building dominates the square: the astrological clock (Orloj). This clock is as much looked at as it is listened to when it strikes, every hour. From here, continue through the Little Square (Malé námestí) to Charles Street (Karlová). This street, boarded with shops (souvenirs, handicraft,...), leads you to Charles Bridge (Karluv Most). Near Old Town Square you also find the Powder Tower.
- The Lesser Town (Malá Strana): Charles Bridge enables you to walk across Vltava River to join the Lesser Town from the Old Town. Broad Charles Bridge, built in 1357 and lined with statues, affords great views of the city and river, as well as the opportunity to see and hear the talent of local artists as you cross from the Old Town to the castle area. It gets very crowded during the summer when it is lined with vendors' stalls selling crafts to tourists. On the way up to Prague Castle, you are going to find the towering steeples of St. Nicholas Church. The tower has recently been re-opened to the public and provides and excellent view of the winding streets below.
- The Castle District (Hradcany): On the top of Nerudová Street, a little street to the right leads to Prague Castle (Pražský Hrad), the (western) entrance of which faces Castle Square. Cross the first and the second yard before arriving into the third one with the entrance of St. Vitus Cathedral. The castle and the walls of St. Vitus Cathedral dominate the Prague skyline. From up there, you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the red tiled roofs and winding alleyways of Malá Strana, the cascading Vltava winding its way through Prague, and a panorama of the 100 spires the city is famous for.
Up there, you also find the Golden Lane, a narrow street boarded with colored little houses built at the end of the 16th century. These houses served as lodging for the guards of the castle. Kafka lived once in the house no. 22.
Walk down the "Old Castle Steps" to Klárov Street, then towards Manes Bridge (Manesuv Most). The bridge, parallel to Charles Bridge, leads to the Jewish Quarter.
- The Jewish Quarter (Josefov): Manes Bridge leads to Jan Palach Square and the Faculty of Philosophy of Charles University. The old Jewish cemetery (1478-1787) is located to the left of the faculty. In the little streets of this quarter you will find synagogues and churches.
- The New Town (Nové Mesto): Coming from the Old Town or from the Jewish Quarter you can reach the New Town either by underground or by foot. The center of New Town is Wenceslas Square, which is dominated by the National Museum (Narodni Muzeum). Wenzeslas Square numbers several passages and is boarded with shops, restaurants, cinemas and theatres,...
Of course, there is much more to see in Prague... as mentioned above, Prague is basically one big landmark; therefore it's nearly impossible to name all the sights. It's better to see for yourself - go on, explore, discover and be amazed!
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